Chow
A Blend of Italy and America - Kelton's Steak & Seafood
I like to make people comfortable,” says Vincenzo DiCostanzo, his English appealingly accented by his native Italian. And when you step from the chilling damp of winter or the sizzling heat of summer into the softly-lit Kelton’s Steak & Seafood restaurant in Medford, you do tend to take a deep breath and slow down. White linens drape the tables while Frank Sinatra croons in the background; an hour later, you might hear light jazz or even an Italian or French tune. Dark wood, leather and rich jewel tones lend warmth to the atmosphere.
Hard work is a life-long ethic for DiCostanzo. Born on the Island of Ischia, Italy, he was one of nine children living on a family farm. His father had a flair for business and operated a hotel, a movie theater (DiCostanzo ran the projector) and a restaurant that introduced a 13-year-old DiCostanzo to the world of food service. Five years later, when parts of “Cleopatra” were filmed on Ischia, the cast and crew frequented the family restaurant and 18-year-old DiCostanzo knew them all, including Elizabeth Taylor. He also met members of the cast and crew of “The Pink Panther” and “Morgan the Pirate.”
Like many Europeans, DiCostanzo eventually landed in New York City. He ran two restaurants in nearby Westchester County, and it was there he met Virginia, his wife of over 40 years. She was immediately smitten by the handsome young Italian and has been by his side for 35 years, working in their restaurants as the hostess.
“It’s in my blood,” says DiCostanzo of the restaurant business. He needed no formal training, but taps into 50-plus years of experience. “You need three things in the kitchen so you can create anything you want,” he says: Eyes to see the presentation, nose to take in the tantalizing aromas and mouth to experience the flavors.
DiCostanzo’s menu features steak and seafood dishes with an Italian flavor, using fresh food as much as possible. Lunch offerings include sandwiches, steak and seafood. The expanded dinner menu includes DiCostanzo’s favorites: Kelton’s Seafood Special (sautéed garlic, shrimp, clams, calamari, mussels, white wine, light marinara sauce and spices over fettuccini) and a ribeye steak prepared with sautéed garlic and Gorgonzola. The tiramisu is a must for dessert.
DiCostanzo enjoys connecting with and pleasing his patrons. “I like to get up and go to work,” he confesses. “You get to meet everybody and I like to talk with the people—I like everything about the job.”
Owning and managing a restaurant, as well as being its head chef, leaves little spare time, but DiCostanzo does enjoy an occasional game of golf and he and Virginia like to travel. He speaks with pride of his three children and three grandchildren and of his 97-year-old mother, who remains on Ischia—and is still sharp, DiCostanzo notes.
As to the restaurant’s name: Well, it’s true that “Kelton’s” doesn’t have a very Italian ring to it. With a twinkle in his eye, DiCostanzo offers a free dinner to anyone who can guess the name’s origin.
Next time you’re relaxing over lunch or dinner at Kelton’s, ponder that challenge and run your idea past DiCostanzo. It shouldn’t be hard to find him—he will most likely be strolling through the restaurant, making sure his customers are satisfied.
words by Lynn Leissler
photography by Jerry Clarkson